Mugler’s FW24: Balancing Performance and Poetry

Gone are the days of lycra cutout bodysuits at Mugler’s Fall/Winter 2024 showcase during Paris Fashion Week. Casey Cadwallader, the creative force behind the brand, brought forth a captivating blend of seduction and showmanship, sparking intrigue among fashion enthusiasts.

PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Irina Shayk walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Lycee Carnot on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Taylor Hill/Getty Images)

In a fashion landscape where some brands opt for a quieter approach to luxury, Cadwallader continues to uphold Mugler’s reputation for extravagant spectacles. Thierry Mugler, the visionary designer behind the French fashion house, was renowned for his unparalleled shows that transcended mere runway presentations. The recent resurgence of interest in Mugler’s iconic designs, epitomized by Zendaya’s appearance in the archival Mugler “Gynoid” fembot robot suit from Fall/Winter 1995, demonstrates a renewed appetite for theatricality within the fashion community.

However, Cadwallader’s approach isn’t merely about replicating past extravaganzas. Instead, he crafts a more refined act of theater, signaling a departure from the era of lycra bodysuits. While Mugler’s legacy is synonymous with sculptural designs, Cadwallader’s collection for FW24 unfolds in three acts, progressively revealing the season’s offerings. Models, enveloped in slinky ensembles, traverse a darkened room illuminated by spotlights, creating a mesmerizing ambiance.

Cadwallader’s vision for the collection is clear: a shift towards glamorous, decadent, and textural creations. This departure from the body-conscious denim and sporty jersey fabrics of the past highlights Mugler’s seductive allure in after-hours dressing. The collection opens with an exploration of revealing forms, featuring sheer corsetry and molded leather garments that appear to melt off the models’ bodies. Sumptuous velvet fabrics beckon viewers to explore the plush textures, reminiscent of the debauchery found in Parisian haunts.

Collaborating with Canadian surrealist painter Ambera Wellmann, Cadwallader introduces printed pieces that evoke a Renaissance romanticism, adding a new dimension to the brand’s aesthetic. Draping, tiering, and feather embellishments further amplify the collection’s grandeur, echoing the fanfare of Mugler’s past presentations.

Cadwallader’s design philosophy resonates with Mugler’s ethos of performance and transformation, where clothing becomes a tool for self-expression and empowerment. It’s not merely about captivating an audience but also about how garments shape, provoke, and inspire the wearer.

In summary, Mugler’s FW24 collection strikes a delicate balance between performance and poetry, reaffirming the brand’s status as a beacon of extravagance and innovation within the fashion industry.